I have to declare an interest here: J. Sheekey is probably my favourite restaurant in London, which accounts for me being taken there for my birthday. I was lucky in going here quite a lot when I was younger. This accounts for a lot of the affection I feel for it. It excels in making its diners feel comfortable. The dark wood panelling, crisp white tablecloths and art deco design all add a feeling of old-world luxury to the whole thing. It does very well, but it doesn't let you know how busy it is, and isn't loud and frenetic in the way a lot of popular restaurants are. Not that there's anything wrong with busy, it creates an atmosphere. Here though the aim is just very different. The restaurant is divided into three rooms each with around twenty covers as well as a bar and a newly opened oyster bar. The effect of this is to create a far more relaxed, intimate experience. Everything is gracefully done, the service is good, very polite and slightly formal. They wear waistcoats. The photos on the wall are all of old theatre stars in black and white. In some places things like this can feel very twee. Here, however, it is done completely naturally and all the details are just right. If you have been there more that one or two times the whole experience is a comfortable and very comforting one.
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