Sunday, 20 November 2011
Eat Bangkok: Chinatown
Eat Bangkok: Nahm
An Australian is the best Thai chef in the world. So good in fact he is the first Thai chef to win a Michelin star. The restuarant that received this honour is called Nahm and is right here at home in London, and it is very, very expensive. There is however also a Nahm in Bangkok, in the Metropolitan hotel, where you can sample Thompson's cooking for a fraction (though it's still not cheap) of the price.
Monday, 24 October 2011
Sunday Roast: Hawksmoor
Hawksmoor does great steaks and cocktails, I would say the best in London, but how does it fare when cooking the classic of British cooking le rostbif (incidentally they only do le rostbif, rather tha le rostlamb or le rostpork, so don't go if you fancy something else)? The thing is they know meat, but a great roast is a lot more than that, I would almost, but not quite, go as far as to say that the meat is secondary to trimmings. Thankfully with a yorkshire pudding the size of a flying saucer and bone marrow and onion gravy of unlimited refills up their sleeves they are doing very well indeed.
Labels:
Cocktails,
Hawksmoor,
Spitalfields,
Sunday Roast
Tuesday, 18 October 2011
Mama Lan
For me hearing the combination of Beijing street food and Brixton market is pretty much like putting crack and a crack pipe in front of a drug addict at this point. My favourite place to eat in London with some of my favourite food from when I used to be fun and travel a lot (wistful sigh... also please no comments that I never used to be fun). Mama Lans also has the benefit of being setup by a blogger, so obviously its getting immediate points, it's also a family mother and daughter enterprise - so all very positive and cosy. So how was it?
In short pretty good. The cold slow cooked beef came in thin slices with a good star anise flavour as well as a lot of other warm, autumnal spicing, very nice and tender, still moist enough despite the fact that chilling has a drying effect on meat. The pickles were great, and the dumplings were good. It was especially fun watching them being hand rolled infront of us the whole time we were there, given the counter puts you practically on top of the kitchen. The only dissapoinment was that despite the filling being good the dumplings were pretty underseasoned. At this point, however, I think it's fair to put that down to teething problems given Mama Lans had only been open for a couple of days. I will definitely go back and try this place again.
In short pretty good. The cold slow cooked beef came in thin slices with a good star anise flavour as well as a lot of other warm, autumnal spicing, very nice and tender, still moist enough despite the fact that chilling has a drying effect on meat. The pickles were great, and the dumplings were good. It was especially fun watching them being hand rolled infront of us the whole time we were there, given the counter puts you practically on top of the kitchen. The only dissapoinment was that despite the filling being good the dumplings were pretty underseasoned. At this point, however, I think it's fair to put that down to teething problems given Mama Lans had only been open for a couple of days. I will definitely go back and try this place again.
Labels:
Beijing,
Brixton,
Brixton Village,
Chinese,
Dumplings
Brixton Village: Kaosan
Kaosan has been getting a lot of good press lately. Brixton Village has made it into the Standard, Jay Rayner has review Kaosan specifically, it's loved on Chowhound. Sadly when I first went there I was a bit underwhelmed. But then I had Larb Gai, a combiation of toasted rice, minced chicken and coriande, which is fine, but not the most exciting thing in the world - this Saturday the Moo Ping pork skewers marinated with sugar cane, and stir fried pork with holy basil turned me around completely.
Labels:
Brixton,
Brixton Village,
Kaosan,
Thai
Friday, 9 September 2011
Barcelona Restaurants: Barceloneta
How much would you pay for a plate of prawns, 6 to be precise? At a good restaurant £12-15, though baring in mind they're just grilled, no foams, or sauces maybe not. I'm guessing you would not pay £35, but if you don't at Barceloneta you will be missing out big time (I am going to caveate this by stating quite clearly that I wasn't paying, and if I was maybe I would be less adament). The gambas de palamos are regarded as the best prawn world wide and after trying them I can't disagree. If I was more pretentious I would say they were the Platonic archetype of a prawn, all others being paltry shadows dancing on the cave wall... but I'm not (ahem) so I'll just say they were bloody brilliant. Food like this is what differentiates the Spanish and Itialians in their food culture. Simple, unpretentious food, with bags of flavour, beautifully grown, caught or bred is king and people will pay a lot (some would say an extortionate ammount) of money for a great, great prawn that hasn't had much cheffing inflicted on it. This is a very, very good thing.
Barcelona Restaurants: Cova Fumado
Barcelona is full of experimental food, molecular gastronomy, etc, etc blah blah, I was trained with Feran Adria, blah blah, el Buli blah blah. Sadly very, very few people can do this food well, and honestly it's quite boring if people don't. It stops being food and starts to be an infuriating attempt by the chef to convince you he's clever, and far too many kitchens seem to think this kind of experimentation and scientific apporach is a short-cut round learning how to actually cook. After a couple of these trendy tapas/pintxos later I felt a bit deflated, I wanted a bar with proper food. So after desperate Time Out IPhone search we decided to go to Cova Fumado, somewhere which seemed to fit the bill of proper food.
Initial signs were good. It was heaving and not with a lot of tourists with guidebooks (as a tourist I shouldn't sneer, but it's often a bad sign). The guy behind the bar was loud and shouting conversations at regulars and new joiners alike, his mum was behind the griddle along the other wall and the bar was made of granite and cracked and the chairs were near falling apart through years of enthusiastic eating. The food did not dissapoint either, anything but - squid with oil and garlic was caramalised on the edges and beautifully soft and fresh. Chickepeas with morcilla rich and moreish and the fried sardines were perfect. Dried broad beans flavoured with black-pudding and chilli were another highlight. The bill with beers and wine came to comfortably under £35 for two and was worked out with a pencil dirlectly on the bartop.
This is exactly the kind of food I like, simple one to four ingredient dishes made with top quality produce and not messed around with. The place had a great atmosphere in a been on the dockside forever kind of way, it's rough and ready and great fun. Highly recommended.
Labels:
Barcelona,
Proper Brilliant,
Tapas
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