Restaurant Review: Trangallan

A quick trip to Andalucia and a couple of visits to the tiny village of Setenil de las Valles reminded me how good the simple, unpretentious tapas of this region is.  Little fried squid, cured manchego stored in good olive oil, slices of jamon with fried quails eggs and all a Euro each.  So what to do upon my return dine out on some modern Spanish in Newington Green's Trangallan, price per tapita £7-11...hmmm.

This is slightly unfair.  This isn't rural Andalucia where unemployment is some of the worst in Europe after the collapse of the construction industry in the region and where agriculture is dominant (the tourist industry on the coast is mainly dominated by outsiders).  Secondly these weren't really Tapas, they were -shudder- small plates, London's newest not very new fad.  So not new is this craze in fact that the Pitcher and Piano now does what they call grazing plates.  This is progress from the begining of the trend in Bocca de Lupo and Polpo in the same way that going from the Parthenon to the Elephant and Castle shopping centre is progress in architecture.  However, before I give the impression that I didn't like Trangallan I will clarify.  The food was very good, very very good in fact and it was a pleasant little place, although with a slightly self concious air of being a trendy neighbourhood secret.